Ready Made Garments Industries of Bangladesh earns more than 76% of the Bangladesh’s export revenues (some US$6.6 billion in fiscal 2004-05) which is 9.5 percent of GDP. It directly employs approximately 2 million workers, 80 percent of whom are women and thus, it employs hundreds of thousands more indirectly (Kaye & Arendse, 2005). It is a stark reality that, present scenerio of the ready made garments (RMG) sector of Bangladesh is not very good and it might face the same fate like jute if the proper steps are not made at this stage. The Bangladeshi garment industry has lagged behind in its response to changes to the modern innovation. Anthropometry is such an issue which will be revealed in this article.

In the press of 23 December, 2005 ITGLWF (International Textile Garments and Leather Workers Federation) have pointed out some areas where should garments industries concentrate in order to improve its competitiveness in today’s global market. These are improved productivity, improved quality, improvement of the delivery system and social reputation. Among the findings quality is the most important to survive in this competitive world and all the other elements are related to it. There is no alternative of quality to face the challenges. Quality can be assured by ensuring modern technique and technology to make the people of this field compitible and skilled. Where RMG industries of Bangladesh are struggling to survive, World has gone far away in technological advancement. Bangladesh is the manufacturer who is making for the developed world. If Bangladesh is not aware of the technological advancement, they will not be able to keep in the pace with the other competitors.

The term “Anthropometry” has been derived from Greek ανθρωπος, man, and μετρον, measure, literally meaning "measurement of humans" but in physical anthropology refers to the measurement of living human individuals for the purposes of understanding human physical variation.

Today, anthropometry plays an important role in industrial design, clothing design, ergonomics, and architecture, where statistical data about the distribution of body dimensions in the population are used to optimize products. Changes in life styles, nutrition and ethnic composition of populations lead to changes in the distribution of body dimensions (e.g., the obesity epidemic), and require regular updating of anthropometric data collections. Anthropometry is well described as the practice of designing products so that users can perform required use, operation, service, and supportive tasks with a minimum of stress and maximum of efficiency.  Woodson, W. (1981)

"Anthropometrics" also refers to measurements of human but there are many issues related to it. These measurements are usually made of a particular sample of the population and often separated on the basis of sex and age. Typical anthropometric measurements include standing stature, weight, distance between eyes, and circumference around waist. This is a very new concept in clothing sector in the global world as well as in Bangladesh. However, it is a very useful issue regarding the satisfaction of the customers because at present world, people not only wear garments just because of the style or fashion but also for comfort. As garments exporting country Bangladesh should be concerned of such things.

People are all aware of the comfort related issues. Especially in the developed countries the numbers of the working people are very high and they are engaged with different professions and some professions really demand the garments which can serve the purpose. It has been also noticed that a comfortable garment can increase the work efficiency dramatically which will be disclosed in this article. There are many interesting issues which influence the term anthropometry.

First of all, the topic “size ranges and provision” can be mentioned. It has been noticed that the size of garments for female generally starts from size 8 and ends at 20. However, some clothing manufacturers use the sizing system as 8-10, 10-12, 12-14 and so on which indicates that both a size 8 and a size 10 are bound to buy the same garments but it is not legitimate that the garment will properly fit the both. Again, a question may arise that a size 10 female would buy what garments. Would she buy size 8-10 or size 10-12? This sizing system is also not statistically sound.

Again, it has been found that there are some slim persons in the world that are below size 8 for example we can mention about Victoria Beckham or it can be said that they are petite but most of the fashion houses are not always offering for them. On the contrary, it is very tough to find larger than size 16 in the market but “size UK” survey shows that the women are becoming larger than the previous. There are also some fashion houses they do not want that their fashion garments should be worn by the bulky woman so they are intentionally not offering the larger size range and at the same time they can save the fabric by not making the large sizes and large sizes means some large panels and large patterns as it is known well that large patterns are really tough to accommodate during marker planning. If a person is not finding proper size for her, she will definitely not feel good when wearing it and will lead her to discomfort not only during shopping as well as during wearing. From the market research it has been observed that a few fashion retailers are offering petite range and most of the retailers are not offering any collection for larger women. This is the most important reason for dissatisfaction and unhappy shopping. (Rose, et al, 2005)

Body cathexis is defined as the degree of satisfaction or dissatisfaction with the various parts or processes of the body (Secord and Jourard, 1953). According to LaBat and DeLong (1990) there is one factor that contributes to women’s dissatisfaction with their bodies is that fashionable clothing reflects a standard sizing, which is not sometimes realistic. When a garment does not fit, consumers become sad and blame their own body instead of the garment, which definitely in turn causes a negative body image.

Some shops offer vanity sizing system which indicates that they put a size 10 tag to a size 12 garment. From the psychological analysis it has been found that people always want to think them slimmer than what they actually are. Therefore, when a size 12 accommodate her in a size 10 garment she might feel good. This feel good factor amazingly brings comfort to the users’ life.

There are many sizing systems which are prevailing in this world presently such as numerical, alphabetical and so on. Some sizing systems indicate the age especially in the kids wear. It has been also noticed that there are various types of numerical sizing systems. One of them is indicated as 8, 10, 12 and so on and other one is represented as 36, 38, 40 and so on. The alphabetical sizing indicates as S, M, L, XL and so on which exactly do not represent any dimension of the body where as shirts indicate the neck measurement in the size tag such as 15, 16 and so on. Again, Size varies from country to country. An “S” of USA size will fit an Asian “L”. People are being confused with the variety of sizing system. This is a great cause of the customers’ dissatisfaction.

Fit in a garment is the burning question that contributes to the confidence and comfort of the wearer. Well-fitted clothes are considered vital to an individual’s psychological and social well being (Smathers and Horridge, 1978-79) but in many retail shops it is observed that many similar garments like skirt waist is not similar though they are marked in the same size. There are also observed various method of sizing system which is very confusing. Tamburrino (1992) pointed out that designations of women’s apparel sizes with numbers which have no direct relationship with any part of the female body has lead to the present confusion among apparel companies and even more so among consumers. There should be well maintained one standard sizing provision world wide to reduce the dissatisfaction.

Huge untidy, unarranged floor spaces of high street shops also bring dissatisfaction among the shoppers. People have very busy schedule at present world so they do not have enough time to roam around the unarranged store to find their garments. Thus the store should be arranged in such a way so that same styles would be in the same place starting from the small sizes to the larger sizes.

Fitting room is a must for a fashion house. It should have adequate space along with at least one mirror that would show the whole body of the customer. There should be a sitting arrangement as there are some garments such as trousers that require a person to sit during wearing. The fitting cubicle must be illuminated by adequate light especially white light. It will help the wearer to find out the right colour. The cubicle must have a well protected door or at least heavy curtains. The surrounding walls of the fitting rooms must be up to the ceiling or at least up to the level of modesty. There must be some room for keeping the belongings of the shoppers. Some hangers are must in the fitting cubicles which will help to hang the garments of the shoppers. There are some stores where people are allowed to take certain number of garments in the fitting room for example Primark, the famous cheap brand of UK allows a customer to go to the fitting cubicles with six garments. If they find some one who does not have six garments with him or her they give additional socks to make the number six. This is not very soothing for the customers at all. They must have some freedom during shopping. Shops can provide tight security in front of the fitting cubicles to prevent unwanted incidents such as theft. Gents and ladies fitting room must be separated and should be away to each other. If possible ladies and gents items must be stored on separate floors to fulfill the ethical issues. Fitting rooms must be clean and store representative must visit the fitting room in regular interval to ensure that there are no additional items over there. Return policies can be posted over the walls of fitting rooms.

Ashdown and DeLong (1995) have indicated two issues which consumers’ pay most attention relative to a perception of fit. The first issue is an individual or personal judgment relative to how the garment looks on the body when wearing. The other is the sense or perception of the comfort level of the garment based on both tactile and visual responses from the consumer. Therefore, it is expected that the garments and as well as the fitting room should be comfortable. There are no sitting arrangement and no place to keep the belongings at many retail shops. The floors and lighting system are also unsatisfactory.

Music plays an important role during shopping and which is related to anthropometry. Shops which sale for young people they should play modern hip hop music to attract the young generation. Aristocratic boutiques might play some classic music to attract the posh and elderly customers. It has been identified that if a fast music is played it stimulates the brain and inspires the shoppers to choose fast. Again, Soft classic music helps the shoppers to be nostalgic which is very comfortable to the elderly people.

The garments can be arranged in various ways such as over tables, rails, hangers and so on. Whatever the arrangement is the similar types of garments should be placed in same place and different sizes should not be mixed together. The size codes can be placed over both in Hanger and garments but it has been noticed that in some retail stores that the codes are not matched with each other which make confusion among the buyers.

Moreover, the size labels sometimes do not give the exact specification. It has been found that a size 8 shirt is having the dimension of a size 12 chest so there is no standardization of the size. This situation can give an improper fit and confuse the shoppers about the sizing system of the garments retailers. Very accurately maintained standard size is a prerequisite of establishing a fashion house and fit should be measured by the sales assistant. The shop should give free altering facilities to the customers.

It has also been observed in many retail stores that the sleeve length has become longer than the previous, it touches up to mid of the palm now. It gives such a feeling that the body should be very slender with long hands so it became difficult for the larger people group to find the actual size (especially formal shirts) as if it fits body, the sleeve remains unusually long sometimes.

Above all, many customers are sometimes found looking for toilets in retail stores. The retailers are using spaces for their outlets so they should also consider the natural need of customers like toilets and assure fire exits as well which may increase satisfaction in retail environment.

According to Brown (1992, p. 261) “Personal preferences of fit are shaped by current fashion trends and cultural influences, age, sex, figure type and life style” so the retailers pay attention to customers’ opinions regarding fit and size identification. Thus, dissatisfaction level may be reduced and the retailers will be able to reduce the refund and exchange of the garments and in turn earn more profit. If the refund or exchange rate is high it will definitely influence not only the retailers but also the manufacturers. Bangladesh has a huge population and it has a huge market so it is not wise just to think that Bangladesh will only carry out the orders of the foreign buyers. Bangladesh should come forward with its own range to serve country’s people and as well as to launch own brand by following different technological advancement. Therefore, Garments manufacturer like Bangladesh will be able to survive.

References:

Alexander, M. et al. (2005)‘Clothing fit preferences of young female adult consumers’, in  International Journal of Clothing Science & Technology, 17(1), pp. 52-64.

Ashdown, S.P. and DeLong, M. (1995) ‘Perception testing of apparel ease variation’, in Applied Ergonomics, 26 (1), p. 47.

Brown, P. (1992) Ready-To-Wear Apparel Analysis, New York, Macmillan, NY.

International textile garments and lather workers federation, press releases 23rd December 2005[online] http://www.itglwf.org [accessed on April 04, 2007].

Kaye, D. and Arendse, L. (2005) Periodical : Apparel. New York: October 47(2), pg. 51

LaBat, L.K. and DeLong, M. (1990) ‘Body cathexis and satisfaction with fit of apparel’, in Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 8(2), pp. 43-48.

Otieno, R. et al (2005) ‘The unhappy shopper, a retail experience: exploring fashion, fit and affordability’, in International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 33(4), pp. 298-309

Secord, P.F. and Jourard, S.M. (1953) ‘The appraisal of body-cathexis: body-cathexis and the self”, in Journal of Consulting Psychology, 17, pp. 343-347.

Smathers, D. and Horridge, P.E. (1978-79) ‘The effects of physical changes on clothing preferences of the elderly women’, in International Journal of Aging & Human Development, 9(3), pp. 273-278.

Tamburrino, N. (1992), “Apparel sizing issues, Part II”, in Bobbin, May, pp. 55-60.